Wednesday, July 16, 2014

The Cocaine Trail

When you step off the plane and feel like you have given blood and are about to pass out ... there's a good chance you're in La Paz, Bolivia.

Bolivia is the source of 70% of the world's Coca leaves, the primary ingredient required to make Cocaine. While the USA and buddies are not big fans of this fact, the reality is the Coca leaf is a super food of sorts, which is why the locals grow it. You'll often see a local chewing their way through a bag of leaves in order to stay awake, counter the effects of altitude or to suppress their appetite...plus possibly many other health benefits.

The city of La Paz itself rests in a valley 3,600m above sea level, encircled by 4,700m mountainous peaks. This not only means it has an average max temperature of 12 all year round, it also means it takes a while to acclimatise to the altitude. What does this mean? It means you feel like an old man - you're puffed walking up a few stairs, you're generally pretty fatigued for a few days, permanent headaches persist and you can feel quite nauseous....not to mention drinking booze can result in a wicked 2/3 day hangover.

We were only in La Paz for a few days, but I thought it was a pretty impressive place. Super cheap hostels, vibrant markets and bizarre women's fashion. While there's not really a lot to do in the city itself, it's a good hub to do day trips from, while appreciating the very light touch on the wallet.....a new beanie and gloves for $5? You bet!

Day 1 we took a bike tour, although not your average bike ride rather one down the World's Most Dangerous Road. 600m cliffs line the edge of the dirt road which runs for 54km down into the Yungtan valley, so you better hope the brakes on your bike work!

The ride itself was very cool, although unfortunately it was raining a lot of the time so we didn't get to fully appreciate the yawning abyss just 1 meter to the left of us. Our guide certainly ensured we respected the road though - as he stopped to tell us the points where a bus packed to the brim with nearly 100 people fell off, or when democracy was introduced where the 5 leading candidates were marched and pushed off the cliff (very democratic)!

We left La Paz the next day to check out the salt flats of Salar de Uyuni. This is the place where, when wet, the salt makes everything reflective making for amazing photos. Sadly it was the dry season for us, so we didn't get to witness this.

We chose a 3 day tour, which in hindsight was probably too long. The salt flats were pretty cool and the changing landscapes were amazing, but it was a lot of driving over 3 days in a rattly Land Rover. It was also bloody freezing! When we stepped off the bus in Uyuni it was -12 and our accommodation wasn't heated!

I would certainly recommend checking it out if you have the chance, but perhaps do it in the wet season, and possibly cut it down to the 1 day version. I'd also love to hear if anyone has sat on top of fish island (an old coral reef filled with cacti in the middle of the salt flats) during the wet season, to witness a sunset. My guess is that this would be incredible!

The view out of our window in La Paz for about $12 a night. Pretty impressive, although stepping off the plane to 3,600m was doing my head in at this point.

The scenic part at the top that lead to the World's Most Deadly Road. Pretty nice view, which I had a Porsche to tackle it.

Nina petrified at her death defying ride. 

As you can see the road is pretty narrow. 2 cars coming in opposite directions makes for interesting times.

One of the cliffs on the side of death road. 

What are the odds the photographer was in the right spot to capture this stack! Hilarious! Luckily she was fine apart from a big gash on her leg.

This was the point when I realised my shoes probably wouldn't dry for the next week.

The Llamas seemed to enjoy a frosty beverage in the afternoon.

Fish Island in the middle of Salar de Uyuni. It is an old coral reef from when this entire area used to be an inland sea.

Nina and I on the salt flats. Unfortunately at this time of the year there is no mirror effect. Next time!

Random rock formations in the south of Bolivia. No idea where on earth we are though!

One of the lagoons south of Salar de Uyuni with the pink flamingos.

The pink flamingos sipping on toxic algae in the lagoons.  

The landscapes south of Salar de Uyuni were pretty spectacular. 

One of only 2 desert foxes we encountered on the 3 day journey. He was happy to get pretty close to the jeep for just a piece of bread! 

A strange rabbit, rodent, squirrel thing that didn't seem too bright. 

The rock tree, formed from the brutal (and cold) winds whipping through this area. 

Another not so bright looking fella. 

Dawn at the geysers made for some cool photos. They are planning to use the geysers steam for electricity in the future too....great idea although there is not much around to power! 

It was an amazing sunrise over the hot springs on our final day in Bolivia. While it was close to 0 degrees outside, I jumped in very soon after to be the 3rd person in. When I got out of the springs there was about 30 people in there!

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